I received an email from a member with some terrific questions. For the possible benefit of other members, I'm placing his questions here:
story28 writes:
I am trying to increase my knowledge of charcuterie and salumi and am in training to one day open my own charcuterie shop. I had a few questions that I was hoping you could help me answer.
► How is it that prosciutto does not require nitrates or rather a curing salt in order to maintain the pink myoglobin in the ham?
► If fats are said to cause rancidity, why is it that the lard that is sometimes used to cover dry aged hams does not turn? Furthermore, the actual fat contained in the ham?
► When dry aging sausages it is said that it is important to slowly reduce the humidity in the room that the sausage's are aging in to prevent case hardening. If one were to have a shop, how could one hang sausages with different moisture contents that require different humidities in the same room?
► Is it best to choose humidity that falls within the median in order to accommodate all stages of production? Or would this hinder the product from reaching its full potential?
► When there are sausages hanging in salumi shops how is it that they are able to stay out in the open air? I understand that those products tend to be shelf stable at a certain point, but what about the light rays that can cause rancidity in fats? Is this limited somehow due to the curing and aging?
►Since it is not advisable to add water to sausage mix that will be dry aged, how can one most effectively incorporate the spice mixture?
I should probably stop there. Again, if you could find the time to help me I would appreciate it tremendously. Thank you for your time.
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Great questions! I hope I may be of help.
You asked:
People "curing" ham using salt only are taking a risk. Sure, it`s a small risk but clostridium botulinum (producing botulism), is nearly always fatal. There is actually no remedy or surefire treatment for botulinal poisoning. Remember, the rear leg of a hog is made of more-active muscle that requires more oxygen, thus maintaining the darker hue than the "other white meat".How is it that prosciutto does not require nitrates or rather a curing salt in order to maintain the pink myoglobin in the ham?
Cure #2 is used in dry-cured sausages and whole-muscle meats where curing time allows the nitrate to gradually break down into nitrite. Cure #2 in the United States, contains one ounce (6.25% ) sodium nitrite (NaNO2), with .64 ounce (4%) sodium nitrate (NaNO3), and 89.75 sodium chloride (1 lb. of salt). Why so much nitrate? Remember, it is actually nitrite reducing to nitric oxide that cures meat. After two weeks dry-curing, only about a quarter of the 6.25 % sodium nitrite remains in the meat. Nitrite is simply too rapid. In salamis requiring three or more months to cure, a certain amount of sodium nitrate must be added to the recipe to break down over time. Since micrococcaceae (kocuria) species are inhibited at low pH, sausages relying on nitrate reduction must be fermented by a traditional process. Therefore, nitrate is still used by many dry sausage manufacturers because sodium nitrate (NaNO3) serves as a long time "reservoir" of sodium nitrite (NaNO2). Note that in other countries, the formula varies. In the United Kingdom, for example, Prague Powder # 2 (Cure #2) is available with 5.67% sodium nitrite, 3.62 sodium nitrate, the remainder being salt.
Fats don`t cause rancidity. Oxidized fats cause rancidity. To improve stability at room temperature, lard is often "hydrogenated". Don`t confuse this process with "partial hydrogenation" of vegetable oils which creates unhealthy trans-fats. (Hydrogenated lard typically contains fewer than 0.5g of transfats per 13g serving). Lard is also often treated with bleaching and deodorizing agents, emulsifiers, and antioxidants such as BHT. These treatments prevent spoilage. Untreated lard must be refrigerated or frozen to prevent rancidity.If fats are said to cause rancidity, why is it that the lard that is sometimes used to cover dry aged hams does not turn?
The fat contained in the ham or inside a sausage such as salami is not exposed to oxygen. Ok, follow me on this one... in salami, staphylococcus is preferred to micrococcus (also known as Kocuria) because they are anaerobic and require less oxygen. This allows staphylococcus to be active deep inside the sausage. In addition to possessing nitrate reductase (releasing nitrite from nitrate), staphylococcus produces the enzyme catalase...which protects the sausage against oxygen activity and delays the rancidity of fats.Furthermore, the actual fat contained in the ham?
When dry aging sausages it is said that it is important to slowly reduce the humidity in the room that the sausage's are aging in to prevent case hardening. If one were to have a shop, how could one hang sausages with different moisture contents that require different humidities in the same room?
The FSIS of the USDA has made the statement, "A potentially hazardous sausage does not include one with a water activity value of 0.85 or less". It is interesting to note that campylobacter, e.coli, clostridium botulinum, salmonella, listeria, shigella, and bacillus, all fail to survive below 0.91. It is only staphylococcus aureus that survives until it encounters a further reduction to Aw 0.86. This point is the "target" for air dried sausages. Much below this point, the texture will be too dry to be palatable. Above .86, the sausage sustains the risk of harboring pathogenic bacteria. In a shop, some specific sausages containing more moisture than others, would have to be kept in a humidifier or "glass counter cabinet" of some sort, to prolong the life of a particularly moist sausage. Most however, fall within a commonly comparable range of humidity, usually maintained throughout an entire room.
Ideally, of course it would be preferable to accommodate each separately. However, in the real world this is not even remotely possible and we are forced to accept the "median". However, you will be surprised how many different types have relatively similar storage conditions. Most dry-cured products, having been inside a curing chamber at irregular degrees of humidity for varying amounts of time, are safely stored at 70-75% RH.Is it best to choose humidity that falls within the median in order to accommodate all stages of production? Or would this hinder the product from reaching its full potential?
In shops in my area, they simply cannot be out in the open air for very long. Our air is so dry, it has to rain twice to get wet! We are so dry here that the bushes follow the dogs around! And it dries sausages and jerky so quickly, if one looks away for a moment, one will miss the bloom! Kidding aside, there is a lot to be said about living near water when you run a charcuterie business. The relative humidity in many areas around the Great Lakes or along the Eastern Seaboard is ideal for keeping sausages somewhat fresh. In drier areas, the emphasis is on selling the product as quickly as possible. Certainly most of it cannot be displayed and has to remain in a humidity-controlled area. And yes, neon light can wreak havoc on your hard work. Using corn syrup solids significantly reduces the bleaching problem of fluorescent lights. Corn syrup solids also tend to hold the cured color for a longer period of time. It even supports the flavor-producing fermentation process in semi-dry and dry-cured products.When there are sausages hanging in salumi shops how is it that they are able to stay out in the open air? I understand that those products tend to be shelf stable at a certain point, but what about the light rays that can cause rancidity in fats? Is this limited somehow due to the curing and aging?
Since it is not advisable to add water to sausage mix that will be dry aged, how can one most effectively incorporate the spice mixture?
Some water is usually added to sausage of any type. It is not advisable to add excessive amounts of water. I have never just "sprinkled" the cure into the meat. In my opinion, equalization in that case would not occur until you received next year`s tax return. Some folks will disagree with me, but I recommend using a minimum amount of water to help disperse the cure as well as the spices. The added moisture will evaporate in due time providing the sausage maker has not "smeared" the casing. Excessive amounts of moisture will affect otherwise good salami by producing unwanted molds. I hope this has helped.
Best Wishes,
Chuckwagon
