(Hangers) Is all Stainless Steel created equal?

JerBear · Post by **JerBear** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 23:10

I'd like to move away from wood smoke sticks and get some SS hooks for my smoker and now for my curing fridge. I priced the hooks at Allied Kenco, Butcher Packer and TSM and all seemed a little expensive vs. the decorative SS hooks you can get through Amazon. I don't necessarily need the hooks to be sharpened so ya'll think that all SS is okay to use or would you only use the butcher specific stuff?

ssorllih · Post by **ssorllih** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 23:52

There must be about a hundred stainless steel alloys any of them will be acceptable for food service.

Baconologist · Post by **Baconologist** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 00:22

No telling what might be in decorative hooks from China!

I use the F. Dick hooks and wouldn't consider anything else.
They're not cheap, but should easily last a lifetime or two.

http://www.instawares.com/Search.aspx?T ... meat+hooks

ssorllih · Post by **ssorllih** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 00:29

We all understand that a hundred years ago all smokehouse hooks were blacksmith made from low alloy steel.

Chuckwagon · Post by **Chuckwagon** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 03:42

Jer,
You can get 3/16" diameter #416 stainless steel rod in 12" lengths for a buck and a half each at Texas Knifemaker`s Supply Company. Call 888-861-8632 and open an account by submitting a password for your computer. (It's so they can send you a catalog). Worth it pard, because they've got all sorts of other stuff too.

Other steel rods are available and 303 series stainless is even less than that. If you need lighter or heavier rod, that is available too. To make your own "S" hooks, simply chuck three short sections of pipe in the jaws of a vise and bend the rod around the pipe. If you want sharpened ends, use a grindstone before you start bending. At the grinder, use a bowl of water to dip the rod in to cool it off every few seconds, otherwise you can burn the carbon out of the steel. I`ve done business with these folks since the mid 1970`s when they first opened and have found them to be a pretty good outfit. I even met the founder at the Custom Knifemaker`s Guild show in Kansas City once upon a time. Those "S" hooks in the catalogs can get a little expensive if you intend to buy more than just a few of them. Save some bucks and make your own.

Best Wishes,
Chuckwagon

JerBear · Post by **JerBear** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 06:22

Great idea Chuckwagon. I'm all for saving a few bucks and by my association with this fine group I'm obviously interested in DIY!

jbk101 · Post by **jbk101** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:25

Some Stainless Steels are more machinable and can be heat treated to increase the strength / hardness such as 416 stainless steel. It has carbon added (along with Phosphorus and Sulfur ) which makes it the most machinable of all the stainless steels. it is more prone to rust because of this and is magnetic.

302/303 Stainless Steel has less carbon is non heat treatable and good form-ability is non magnetic (in annealed form and Slightly magnetic in cold formed application) it also has excellent corrosion resistance.

Here is a link to a table that might be helpful is choosing the right stainless steel.
http://www.machinist-materials.com/stainless_table.htm

John

Chuckwagon · Post by **Chuckwagon** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:05

That is a terrific chart John. Thank you so much. I used mostly 416 for pins and bolts because I needed machinability in making knives. The barstock for the blades was 440-C, but it sounds like the 303 is ideal for making the S-hooks that Jer is asking about. Besides that, it's less expensive.

It sounds like you work with metals eh? What do you do? That chart is pretty impressive. Thanks again ol' pard.

Best Wishes,
Chuckwagon

JerBear · Post by **JerBear** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 14:10

Great information!

Thanks John!

jbk101 · Post by **jbk101** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 19:46

Your welcome,
I used to work in the in both the Commercial and Automotive Fastener Industry and later on in the Automotive Tubing Industry. Now I just sling cards (Dealer in a Casino)

Over 25 years I have made every type of Fastener (Bolts & Screws) that belongs in a car and commercial markets and 15 years of those as a Quality Assurance/Safety Manger.

In regards to making the hooks 302/303 is the way to go. It is the most cost effective and you can easily form it, using a propane torch to heat up the stock slightly will help you form the shape you are looking for easier.

Good luck
John

JerBear · Post by **JerBear** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 20:25

Since I'm not really going to be pulling a lot of stress on the hooks (no more than 15-18 lbs) I'm assuming that the light heating won't damage temper, correct?

As Chuckwagon mentioned with the cool water, I've smoked a few knife tips in my day.

ssorllih · Post by **ssorllih** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 20:42

Jerbear, Make an "S" hook from a coat hanger and load it . It is surprising how strong such as that can be.

JerBear · Post by **JerBear** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 21:10

Definately a cost effective option but I can be particular about food safe products which is why I'm moving away from direct contact with the smoke sticks. I'm just not confortable with the chemicals coating the hangers particularly as I move towards hot smoking and long term curing/fermenting.

ssorllih · Post by **ssorllih** » Tue Jun 12, 2012 21:18

not advocating as a replacement but just as a test piece to hang a sand bag on. The hanging hook on a coat hanger will rather nicely support a ten pound coat

jbk101 · Post by **jbk101** » Wed Jun 13, 2012 06:33

JerBear

JerBear wrote:I'm assuming that the light heating won't damage temper, correct

As long as you just warm the metal to help facilitate the bending process it will reduce the possibility of stress fractures (weak points) that can be caused by/and during bending it into the shape you are looking to achieve without damage the micro-structure of the metals properties!

Just as with any metal too much heat or incorrectly applied heat will alter the micro-structure of the steel you may be working with. My suggestion is just to apply enough heat to make it uncomfortable for you to touch it with your bare hand but not enough to burn you if you did.
John